Krapipunane / Madder Red

Seekordne värvimine tuli juba parem. Deani raamatust sain nõu, kuidas osadest kollastest ja pruunidest pigmentidest lahti saada, mis punase oranžiks teevad. Krappi võtsin 2/3 lõnga kaalust.

Edasi läksin Nancy McKenna retsepti baasil (vt. Issue 29 (dyes), lk. 3-5). Panin krapitükid potti, (vihma)vesi peale ja (maarjajääga eelnevalt peitsitud) lõng sisse. Kuumutasin 60 °C juures 2 tundi. Seejärel võtsin lõngad värviveest välja ja segasin sinna paar supilusikatäit pesusooda lahust (1 tl. pesusoodat lahustatud ca 1,5 dl keeva veega). Hästi tore oli vaadata, kuidas aluseline soodalahus värvivee hetkega tumepunaseks muutis. Siis jälle lõngad tagasi ja lasin pool tundi aluselises vees seista. NB! Ei kuumutanud! Võtsin lõngad välja, lasin veidi jahtuda ja loputasin, lisades viimasesse loputusvette äädikat, et aluselist pesusoodat neutraliseerida.

Tahtsin seekord uurida, kuidas erinevad lõngad värvi külge võtavad. Testisin Jõgeva Rewooli meriinoga (pildil keskmine) ja kitsevillaga lõnga (vasakul) ning Olivia maavillast lõnga (paremal). Minu hüpotees oli, et meriinoga lõng võtab värvi kehvemini, see on üldiselt meriino häda. Aga ei - meriinoga lõng oli kõige tugevam punane! Arvan, et Olivia lõnga probleemiks oli, et see sisaldas palju lanoliini, mida ma pesemisega välja ei saanud. Lanoliin aga takistab värvi kinnitumist. Kirjutan sellest peatselt eraldi pikemalt.

Alumisel pildil on eelmise ja seekordse krapivärvimise lõngad kõrvuti. Krapp on tõesti vaimustavalt mitmekesine :)

The results from this dyeing were much better. I found some advice in Dean's book about how to get rid of the less desired yellow and brown pigments that would change the colour towards orange.

After that I followed more or less the recipy from Nancy McKenna (look at Issue 29 (dyes), pages 3-5). I put the madder pieces in the pot together with alum mordanted yarn and (rain) water, let it simmer for 2 hours at 60 °C. Then I took the yarns out and added 2 tbsp. of alkaline modifier to the dye bath (1 tsp. of washing soda dissolved in ca 1,5 dl boiling water). It was fascinating how the dye bath changed to dark red! Then I put the yarns back into the bath and let them stay there for another half an hour without applying heat. I took the yarns out, let them cool and rinsed, adding some vinegar to the last rinsing water to neutralize the washing soda.

This time I dyed 3 different wool yarns - middle one on the first picture was a mix with merino, the one on the right just plain Estonian wool yarn and the yarn on the left had some goat wool in it. I thought that the yarn with merino wool would't take the dye so well, because that's often the problem with merino. But I was wrong - it had the strongest colour of the three! I think that the Estonian wool yarn had quite a lot of lanolin in it that didn't come of with scouring and that's why it didn't dye so well. I want to make another post about scouring and lanolin in the future.

On the bottom picture I placed the madder yarns from last and this dyeing next to another. What a wonderful variety :)