Mai lõpus viisin läbi taimedega värvimise õppepäeva. Kuna aega oli vähe, pidin otsustama, kas teha nn. ühe-poti-värvimist ehk siis panna taimed, lõng ja peits korraga potti hauduma, või teha eeltöö ehk peitsimine ja värvivee keetmine ette ära. Otsustasin viimase variandi kasuks, mis tõotas ilusamaid värve. Värvimisi sain teha kahes potis, seega pidin kaks värvitaime välja valima. Üheks võtsin kaselehed - et näidata, kuivõrd ilusat värvi saab nii tavalisest ja lihtsalt kättesaadavast materjalist. Teisena tahtsin aga midagi eksootilisemat, midagi täiesti erilist osalejate jaoks. Košenill tundus ideaalse valikuna. Ehk siis lisaks taimedele sai ka täidega värvitud :) Nagu olingi arvanud, oli see kõigi osalejate jaoks esimene kord košenilliga värvida.
Lõnga-kaselehtede vahekord oli 1:3. Kaselehti keetsin 1 h, lasin värvivees üleöö jahtuda ja kurnasin. Košenillitäisid võtsin 15% lõnga kaalust. Valasin košenillile keeva vee peale ja lasin üleöö leos seista. Järgmisel päeval keetsime neid veel ca pool tundi, siis kurnasime vedeliku värvipotti. Mõlema värvimisega kasutasin vihmavett.
Mõlemasse potti läks kaks vihti valget lõnga ja kaks vihti teiste taimedega värvitud lõnga. Ühele valgele vihile tegime järelpeitsimist raudvitrioliga, seega sai ühest potist kokku neli värvi. Raudvitrioli lisasime mõlemal juhul 1% lõnga massist ja kuumutasime vihte, kuni saime värvi, mis meeldis (10-15 min.).
Kaselehepotti panime ühe krapiga saadud lõheroosa, mis muutus ilusaks soojaks oranžiks. Teine värvitud viht oli rabarberijuure järelvärvimisest saadud beež, mis jäi tuhmiks beežikaskollaseks. Raudvitrioliga saime heledama rohelise.
Košenillipotti sai samuti üks krapiroosa pandud ja nagu ühes eelnevas postituses mainitud, on košenilli ja krapi koosvärvimise tulemused väga nauditavad. Teisena panin sisse tumehalli lõnga (selle sain, kui liialdasin rabarberijuurega värvimisel raudvitrioliga) ning košenilliga üle värvides muutus lõng kauniks tumelillaks. Ainult maarjajääga peitsitud lõng jäi punakaslilla, raudvitriol muutis selle tumedamaks.
Tore üritus oli ja tundus, et ka osalejad jäid rahule. Meil on juba idee, mida lõngaga teha. Tahaksime kududa lapid erinevate Tõstamaa kindakirjamustritega ning lappidest seinavaiba kokku panna, mis jääks Tõstamaa muuseumisse. Eks näeb, kas saame tehtud.
A month ago I held a local workshop in dyeing with natural dyes. As the time was limited, I had to decide whether to do one-pot dyeing (by simmering the dyeplants, yarn and mordant together in the pot) or to prepare the yarn and dyebath in advance. I opted for the latter, because this method promised better colours. I could make two dye pots, so I had to choose two dye materials. As I wanted to show how lovely colours one can get from very common plants, birch leaves were a natural choice. But I also wanted something more exotic and special. It can't get more exotic than cochineal, so this was an easy decision. For all the participants it was the first time to dye with cochineal, so this was a good choice.
The yarn to leaves ratio for birch leaves was 1:3. I simmered the leaves for 1 hour, then let the dye bath cool overnight and drained it on the next day during the workshop. I used 15% of cochineal from the weight of yarn. I poured boiling water over it and left it to soak overnight. During the workshop we boiled it for half an hour, then drained it into the dyepot, adding more water to make the dye bath. I used rain water for both dyebaths.
We put 2 skeins of white, alum-mordanted yarn and two skeins of plant-dyed yarn to both pots. We aftermordanted one of the dyed white skeins with iron, so we got 4 colours from one pot. We used 1% of iron for aftermordanting and we simmered the yarns as long as we got the colour we liked (10-15 min.).
In birch dyebath we put a salmon pink yarn, dyed with madder, which turned into a beautiful warm orange colour. The second predyed skein was a beige I got from rhubarb root afterbath and it turned out a dull yellow. We got light green with iron.
We also overdyed a madder pink yarn with cochineal, and as I have mentioned in an earlier post, the colours are wonderful, when combining cochineal and madder. The second coloured yarn was a dark grey (I got it when I put too much iron in a rhubarb root dyebath) and it turned out a beautiful dark lilac. Alum-mordanted white yarn turned out reddish-purple, with iron it got darker.
It was a fun workshop and the participants were satisfied as well, it seemed. We already have a project in mind for the yarn we dyed. We want to knit small patches with mitten patterns from our region and join the single patches into a tapestry for a local museum.
reede, 27. juuni 2008
neljapäev, 19. juuni 2008
Bluefaced Leicester
On villasid, mida on lihtsam kedrata, on villasid, mida on raskem kedrata. Bluefaced Leicester'i (BFL) vill kuulub esimesse kategooriasse. See on pika kiuga (8-15 cm) imeilusa siidise läikega pehme vill. Väga hea algaja jaoks. Mina ketrasin kammitud villa. Villa kammimise käigus eemaldatakse lühikesed kiud ja kõik kiud on paralleelsed. Kraasitud villa puhul jäävad lühikesed kiud sisse ning kiud ei ole täiesti paralleelsed. Villaloor näiteks on kraasitud vill. Algajal peaks kraasvillast ketramine lihtsam olema.
Peab tunnistama, et kui ma kedervarrega ketramisega alustasin, tegin selle enda jaoks keeruliseks (ise seda teadmata, muidugi). Minu esimene kedervars oli liiga raske (100 g), praegu kasutan seda vaid korrutamiseks. Teiseks kasutasin ketramiseks mingit suvalist villaloori, vist Jõgeval tehtud. See oli ebameeldivalt kare ja lisaks veel väga lühikese kiuga, mis tegi ketramise raskeks. Minu uus kedervars kaalub natuke üle 50 g, tellisin selle Meelilt. Martinite kedervarred on veel selle poolest erilised, et nad on käsitsi nikerdatud konksuga, mitte tavapärase metallist konksuga.
Nii et kui kedervarrega ketramine kohe ei laabu, võiks esimese asjana "varustuse" kriitilise pilguga üle vaadata.
Ja kedratud lõngast heegeldasin endale lihtsa, ühekordsetest sammastest sallkrae sügiseks. Kasutasin nr. 6 heegelnõela. Kuna lõnga loomulik värv oli nii ilus, ei hakanud värvimisega üldse vaeva nägema. Muuseas, modelliks on mu õde. Ta tegi mulle märkuse, et peaksin seda mainima - äkki muidu arvate, et mina nii ilus olen :P
There are wools that are easy to spin and there are wools that are difficult to spin. Bluefaced Leicester's wool belongs to the first group. It's staple length is 8-15 cm, the wool is very soft and has a wonderful lustre. It's a very good wool for a beginner handspinner. I spun from a combed top. When the wool is combed, all short fibers are removed and the fibers are totally parallel. Carded wool has long as well as short fibers and most of the fibers are in the same direction, but not absolutely parallel. A batt, for example, is a retangle of carded fiber. Carded fiber is said to be easier to spin for a beginner.
I have to admit - when I started to spin on a spindle, I made it difficult for me (not knowingly, of course). My spindle was too heavy (100 g) and the wool I used was unpleasantly coarse and the fibers were very short. Now I use this heavy spindle only for plying, and for spinning I have a new one that weighs between 50-60 grams.
So, if spinning on a spindle seems too difficult, take a look at your equipment - maybe you need to make some changes.
I crocheted a very simple scarfette for myself from the BFL yarn. The natural colour was so beautiful that I didn't want to dye it. By the way - it's my sister on the picture with the scarfette, not me. She's far more beautiful than me :)
Peab tunnistama, et kui ma kedervarrega ketramisega alustasin, tegin selle enda jaoks keeruliseks (ise seda teadmata, muidugi). Minu esimene kedervars oli liiga raske (100 g), praegu kasutan seda vaid korrutamiseks. Teiseks kasutasin ketramiseks mingit suvalist villaloori, vist Jõgeval tehtud. See oli ebameeldivalt kare ja lisaks veel väga lühikese kiuga, mis tegi ketramise raskeks. Minu uus kedervars kaalub natuke üle 50 g, tellisin selle Meelilt. Martinite kedervarred on veel selle poolest erilised, et nad on käsitsi nikerdatud konksuga, mitte tavapärase metallist konksuga.
Nii et kui kedervarrega ketramine kohe ei laabu, võiks esimese asjana "varustuse" kriitilise pilguga üle vaadata.
Ja kedratud lõngast heegeldasin endale lihtsa, ühekordsetest sammastest sallkrae sügiseks. Kasutasin nr. 6 heegelnõela. Kuna lõnga loomulik värv oli nii ilus, ei hakanud värvimisega üldse vaeva nägema. Muuseas, modelliks on mu õde. Ta tegi mulle märkuse, et peaksin seda mainima - äkki muidu arvate, et mina nii ilus olen :P
There are wools that are easy to spin and there are wools that are difficult to spin. Bluefaced Leicester's wool belongs to the first group. It's staple length is 8-15 cm, the wool is very soft and has a wonderful lustre. It's a very good wool for a beginner handspinner. I spun from a combed top. When the wool is combed, all short fibers are removed and the fibers are totally parallel. Carded wool has long as well as short fibers and most of the fibers are in the same direction, but not absolutely parallel. A batt, for example, is a retangle of carded fiber. Carded fiber is said to be easier to spin for a beginner.
I have to admit - when I started to spin on a spindle, I made it difficult for me (not knowingly, of course). My spindle was too heavy (100 g) and the wool I used was unpleasantly coarse and the fibers were very short. Now I use this heavy spindle only for plying, and for spinning I have a new one that weighs between 50-60 grams.
So, if spinning on a spindle seems too difficult, take a look at your equipment - maybe you need to make some changes.
I crocheted a very simple scarfette for myself from the BFL yarn. The natural colour was so beautiful that I didn't want to dye it. By the way - it's my sister on the picture with the scarfette, not me. She's far more beautiful than me :)
reede, 13. juuni 2008
Peitsimine / Mordanting
Leena kirjutas väga hea ülevaate peitsimisest oma blogis. Lugege seda!
Leena wrote an excellent overview about mordanting in her blog. Read it!
Leena wrote an excellent overview about mordanting in her blog. Read it!
Kõige ilusamad värvid / The most beautiful colours
Nii krapijuurtega kui ka košenilliga värvides saab ilusaid lõngu. Kuid kui need kaks asja ühte potti panna, tulevad veel kõige ilusamad värvid!
Ülemisel pildil eest taha: košenill, košenillipotis ülevärvitud krapiroosa, teistkordselt kasutatud krapijuured ja košenill (ühes potis värvitud), krapipunane.
You can get beautiful colours from madder as well as from cochineal. But the most stunning colours are created by combining these two dyestuffs!
On the upper picture from front to back: cochineal, salmon pink from madder overdyed with cochineal, reused madder root and cochineal (dyed in one pot), madder red.
Kuid suve nautimine on hetkel küll kõik värvimised tahaplaanile lükanud.
But for now I have postponed all the dyeings and I'm just enjoying the summer.
esmaspäev, 2. juuni 2008
Legendaarne Liles / Legendary Liles
Jim Liles'i "The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing" on suurepärane raamat loodusvärvidest, väga põhjalik igas aspektis. Jim Liles on ajaloolane, kes võttis kätte, uuris välja ja õppis ära, kuidas puuvilla Türgi punaseks värvida. Ja mitte ainult seda - ta töötas välja ka uue, tänapäevasema retsepti, mille puhul läheb aega "ainult" kolm nädalat (ajaloolise 3 kuu asemel). Aga tema raamatus on ka palju muud. Pea 40 lehekülge on pühendatud indigovärvimisele, juures mitu erinevat retsepti, kuidas värvida kemikaalide abil või siis vanamoodsalt kääritades. Siit saab lugeda katkendit potisinisest ehk indigovärvimisest uriini abil. Kuna Liles hakkas loodusvärvidega värvimist õppima puuvilla ja lina värvimiseks, siis saab tema raamatust ka sel teemal palju teada - taimsete kiudude värvimine on villa ja siidi värvimisest mõneti erinev. Ainuke asi, mis mind häirib - mahu- ja kaaluühikud on antud vaid inglise süsteemis ja temperatuurid Fahrenheitides.
"The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing" by Jim Lyles is an excellent dye book, very thorough in every aspect. Jim Liles is a historian, who took the time and effort to learn how to dye cotton Turkey red. Not only that - he also developed a new recipy that takes "only" 3 weeks (compared to 3 months like in the old days). But the book contains much more. Almost 40 pages are dedicated to indigo dyeing with several recipes for chemical as well as fermentation indigo vats. You can read an excerpt on the sig vat (urine vat) here. As Liles started dyeing with natural dyes with the intention to learn to dye cotton and flax, there's lot of useful information on this subject in his book. Dyeing vegetable fibers is somewhat different from dyeing wool and silk. The only thing that bothers me is that the volumes and weights are given in English units and temperatures in Fahrenheits only.
"The Art and Craft of Natural Dyeing" by Jim Lyles is an excellent dye book, very thorough in every aspect. Jim Liles is a historian, who took the time and effort to learn how to dye cotton Turkey red. Not only that - he also developed a new recipy that takes "only" 3 weeks (compared to 3 months like in the old days). But the book contains much more. Almost 40 pages are dedicated to indigo dyeing with several recipes for chemical as well as fermentation indigo vats. You can read an excerpt on the sig vat (urine vat) here. As Liles started dyeing with natural dyes with the intention to learn to dye cotton and flax, there's lot of useful information on this subject in his book. Dyeing vegetable fibers is somewhat different from dyeing wool and silk. The only thing that bothers me is that the volumes and weights are given in English units and temperatures in Fahrenheits only.
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