Esmaspäev, 25. veebruar 2019

"Mis on rahwariie?" Ants Laikmaa ajatud sõnad / "What is folk costume?" Timeless words from an Estonian painter.

Ants Laikmaa (1903) "Lääne neiu" modelliks oli minu vanavanatädi Maria Ruut-Kaals. The model for this pastel by Ants Laikmaa (1903) "Maiden from Lääne County" was my great-grandaunt Maria Ruut-Kaals.

Kui ma laps olin, rippus meil toas Ants Laikmaa "Lääne neiu" plakat. Mäletasin oma Lihula lähedalt pärit tädi juttu, et sellel pildil on tema vanatädi. Kui ma kaks aastat tagasi Pärnumaa Rahvarõivakooli Lihula rahvarõivaid tegema läksin, hakkasin seda pastelli hoopis uutmoodi pilguga nägema. Enam ei näinud pildil noort rätiga neiut, vaid neiut, kellel on seljas Lihula kandile tüüpilised rahvarõivad - väga laiade varrukatega linane särk, mis tõenäoliselt kaunistatud valge põimpiluga, punane liistik, rohkelt rahasid rinnas, kuldsed kurguhelmed, siidrätik peas... See pastell sai mõnes mõttes minu rahvarõivaste inspiratsiooniks, tegin minagi endale põimpiluga särgi, ühe kodarraha ja kolme paatri jagu kannaga rahasid ning punase liistiku valmistasin Ants Laikmaa majamuuseumis hoitava, Laikmaa pärandvara hulgas olnud villase liistiku järgi.

When I was a child a poster with Ants Laikmaa's pastel from 1903 "Maiden from Lääne County" was hanging in my room. I remember my aunt telling me that the girl on the picture was her grandaunt. After joining the Folk Costume School two years ago to make myself a Lihula parish folk costume, I suddenly saw the drawing in a new light. I didn't just see a young girl with a headscarf. Now I saw a young girl who was wearing folk costume clothes and accessories typical for Lihula parish - a linen shirt with very wide arms that were probably embellished with openwork in needleweaving, red vest, several coin pendants, golden pearls around her neck, silk scarf on her head... I used this pastel as an inspiration for my own folk costume. I chose to do the openwork in needle weaving on my shirt, I made several coin pendants and I made my red vest according to the one that's kept in Ants Laikmaa's house museum.
Ants Laikmaa (1934) "Vigala noorik". See portree Vigala rahvarõivais noorest naisest võtab mind alati hingetuks - imeilus! Ants Laikmaa (1934) "Young woman from Vigala". This portrait of a young woman wearing the folk costume from Vigala parish always leaves me breathless - it is beautiful!

Rahvarõivakooli lõpetamiseks kirjalikku tööd kokku pannes sattusin Laikmaa (tol ajal veel Laipmani) 1927. aasta Päewalehes ilmunud artiklile "Mis on rahvarõivas?" See oli kirjutatud läheneva laulupeoga seoses, mis meidki ju kohe-kohe ees ootamas. Laikmaa on seal teemat niivõrd täpselt tabanud!
"Rahwariie on stiil, rahwa tarbe ja maitse järele pika aja jooksul kindlasti wäljakujunenud stiil, ei mitte mõni moe wõi maitsetuse ühepäewaliblikas! Seda nii wäljakujunenud rahwariiet peab tema originaalsuses austama ja hoidma puhta, sest ta on ajalugu, on dokument, mida iga wõhik oma oskamatuse ja maitsetusega ei tohi narrida! Meil on ju juba oma muuseumid /…/, kus wõib oma soowe rahwariidesse panemisel kontrollida ja saada näpunäiteid, missugused kuski kunagi rahwariided olid ja kuidas neid kanti. /…/ Nende eeskujude järele riietatagu endid.“

When writing my thesis for the Folk Costume School graduation I happened upon an article written by Ants Laikmaa in 1927. He has really hit the nail on it's head with this one!
 "Folk costume is a style that has developed over a long time according to the needs and tastes of our people, it does not have the fleeting lifespan of a butterfly like fashion or tastelessness! We have to honour and respect and preserve the folk costume, because it is history, it is a document that not everybody may mock with their inability and tastelessness! We already have museums where one can verify one's wishes when wearing folk costume and get advice on how did they look and how they were worn. Let's follow these examples when we dress ourselves in folk costumes."